Well I have to hand it to you re the brass magnet you obviously used to attract the prop " trimmings "
Our scrap metal hoarders over here have been trying to invent one since 1960 alas to no avail.
Should the trimmings be for your retirement best you get out to the shed tonight and "ping " the trimmings.
Would hate for you to find out on your sixty fifth your treasured hoard has electrolysis and is worth sweet Foxtrot Oscar.
Listen for the "ring "
Here's hoping you didn't centrepop those teeth to shut up the Wartsila chatter.
Drop of EP 140 in the lub oil should shut him up .
Just remembered where the BSB got their Bitumen/ Underseal coatings from.
Condensers and Circulating pumps.
Amongst my first jobs was the overhaul of same.
Make sure the eyebolt was fully home in the casing, backnut tight and on with the liftpull/chain blocks.
Remove the extractor bolts left in the casing, Out with the tap and with a plug tap tap out the screwed diameters in the casing to facilitate the extractor bolts and wind them in thus ( hopefully ) pushing it off the joint face.
Off with about what seemed 100 one inches approx nuts, ( no airwrenches yet here ) support the big old cast iron cover, out with the fox wedges and away from the joint faces and into the flange extensions of the cover went the foxwedges with a lump hammer.
Together with the extractor bolts and the foxwedges the cover began to separate itself from the Condenser itself against the six or so nuts you had left on the studs to prevent it from leaping all over the deck plates . ( bit like that seized front crank pulley with a hydraulic puller on it left overnight and found next day on the opposite side of the engineroom, night watchman said he heard a shotgun go off in the night which of course depicted the time the taper let go )
With your spring loaded welders chipping hammer you set about the long boring job of getting a years crud off the tube stack Cover assembly and each and every tube in the stack. ( bit like the charge aircooler / intercooler stack )
Superb engineering here.
Really nice bit of work each and every tube flared over and sealed both ends to provide a under the circulating pump pressure water seal. Allways like to see admire and see quality work, especially with what standards there are about today.
Now this was your introduction to the die nut.
Die each and every one of the set securing studs down ( like a set bolt, screwed right down to the end with only a small unscrewed diameter twixt the two threads ( which are often different T.P.I.s each end )
Chargehand comes over to see what you have done.
Joint faces, tubestack and all areas cleaned up are checked.
All studs are checked for any signs of the " wasting " effect, i.e. any undercut diameters.
Any studs showing signs of having a waist have to be changed.
Out with two of the nuts and backnut the situation ( like the tappet locknuts ) and try to unscrew the stud.
Badly waisted studs would shear off and now was your introduction to drilling and tapping should it shear off flush.
Grind/file the stud face and out with the centre punch.
Now about this time came out a new invention, the spring loaded centrepunch.
This had an adjustable compression spring tension and it did not take our apprentices long to work out that by placing it in your cupped hand and placing it against a person whom you did not like windscreen and set at maximum when pressed down would shatter the screen noiselessly or produce a large top to bottom crack.
Popping the sheared stud right in the centre and another new tool was brought into play, the centredrill.
Carefully place the centredrill in the centre pop and selecting slow speed on the drill (electric not air here, dead ship ) start to drill out.
Should the drill wander about out with the half round chisel and create a channel for the drill to wander back into thus creating the drilling spot on in the centre of the job.
Try the easy out extractor anti-clockwise one or splined one driven in.
Most of the time this was a no go so out with the correct no 1, 2, and 3 tap set.
Making sure that you used the correct sized drill for the core diameter (most important ) and carefully tap out the hole. No truncated threads wanted here.
Don't whatever you do shear the tap off in the casing
Condenser could be scrap, spark erosion tool made a hell of a mess, sometimes you had to get the bits of the tap out after doing your hard chisel set in and drilling and tapping the casing oversize if there was enough meat there to take it.
And obviously the cover too.
Don't really want to go there.
Having completed all this work button it all up, new joint, water gasket sealer and tighten each and opposite to ensure the cover sits down square.
Don't forget to make sure the cover is not sat down on any of the extractor bolts, put them back in as the last operation.
Having done all of that move on to the other end of the condenser and hope that someone else is doing the other condenser (twin screw jobby here )
So endeth the lesson, just thought I'd mention it in case ( like me ) it's been many moons since I sheared off Condenser studding.
Best of luck with the P.P.E. ( prop pinging exercise ) may the ping/ring you seek be there after all of those years and should it be a dead sliver of the prop don't jump.
It's Friday tomorrow.
Remembering The Good Old days, when Chiefs stood watches and all Torque settings were F.T.